We headed south into County Wicklow for our next adventure. I saw my first sheila-na-gig at Baltinglass Abbey. You can often find pagan symbols hidden in these places. We figured they were hedging their bets, in case that Christianity thing turned out to be a passing fad.
Glendalough/St. Kevin’s
This was our first stop. It’s easy driving distance from Dublin and so is a big tourist attraction. But it’s also really beautiful and cool as hell so here’s a pic, even though it’s not megalithic.
The monastery is one of the oldest in Ireland, established by St. Kevin in the 6th c. AD.
They call this one St. Kevin’s Kitchen since that tower looks like a chimney, but it was actually a bell tower. It and the roof are made of overlapping stones.
Piper’s Stones
This was my first stone circle. It’s also a great song by Van Morrison.
Hawthorn is associated with fairies, so it was a propos to see it here.
Peter Harbison (see Home page) says the name comes from a legend that fairies play their bagpipe music here. Another story says the circle is made up of enchanted dancers who were turned to stone. By fairies, no doubt.
Wikipedia says that the circle is from the Bronze Age, and that some of the stones have been moved, removed, or damaged. Still, a very fine place.
Haroldstown dolmen
My first dolmen, and one of my favorites. It’s not very big and looks a little bit like a big turtle, out in the middle of a field.
Dingle, County Kerry
My husband came over to spend a week in May. We saw and did so many fantastic things, it’s hard to narrow it down to just megaliths, so pardon the digression.
Fahan beehive huts
When there aren’t a lot of trees, you make due. These beehive huts are all over the place in County Kerry, but these are pretty elaborate. It would have housed a little community. Only the stubs of the walls have survived.
Gallarus oratory
It’s supposedly built without mortar, the stones fit perfectly. Nobody knows why it was built, by whom, or how old it is. I don’t know why this picture is so orange.
The Burren, County Clare
We drove to northwest County Clare to an area called the Burren.
It looks like another planet, especially on a grey day. They are huge sheets of limestone, layered on top of one another, then cracked and broken and in some places shoved under or on top of each other. Miles and miles of it.
Poulnabrone dolmen
This is one of my all-time favorite dolmens. Unfortunately, the road near this beautiful dolmen is wide enough for tourist coaches, so it’s very accessible. I’m told there’s a fence around it now.
Leaba wedge tomb
Kilnaboy church, sheila-na-gig
The ruins of a 16th-century church reputedly on the site of a 13th-century church. The notable feature is the sheila-na-gig over the entrance.
Cathair Bhaile Cinn Mhargaidh ringfort
That’s also known as Caer Ballykinvarga.
This ringfort was surrounded by chevaux-de-frise, jagged stones meant to cripple the horses of the advancing enemy. Still effective: you can’t walk here without turning your ankle.
Cathair Mhic Neachtain
I tried sincerely to learn a little Irish, enough to tell you it never looks like it sounds and often uses six letters where one would do. This is Caer McNaughton.
Caher (or cathair) means a fortified place, and so the translation for us non-Irish speakers would be Fort McNaughton (or fort of the son of Naughton). For centuries it was a law school for Irish law, known as Brehon law. Sadly, Brehon law was nearly wiped out by the 17th century.
An Rath ringfort
The outer rim of this ringfort is still evident. The trees obviously have grown up long after it was abandoned, but because of this it’s one of my favorites.
Druid’s Chair
Faked out! It’s a Victorian folly! But it’s a nice picture of sweet little Lulu and Aster. Taking Carole’s dogs for a walk was always a treat.
Fassaroe High Cross
This 12th-century cross was right next to a garbage dump. It’s also known as St. Valery’s cross and was probably moved here from somewhere else.
We came up with lots of odd theories about the carvings on these old crosses. They were meant to illustrate Bible stories, but never made sense to us. This one had two roughly shaped human heads on the back.
This was a beautiful day. We visited Powerscourt, which is like a mini-Versailles, very posh, and then spent the rest of the day looking for the Seefin megalithic tomb. The directions said it was best accessed from the Kilbride Military Camp, so we kept our eyes peeled for that.
We kept seeing signs pointing to Blessington: “Blessington – 2 mi” with an arrow. Following along the road, we’d come to a new sign pointing the direction we’d just come, claiming Blessington was 3 miles that-a-way. Up and down, back and forth, we followed the little roads and saw nothing of Blessington and certainly nothing of a military camp.
Finally, the penny dropped. We’d driven past this building several times before we realized there was a small sign on the front. We had to drive up the driveway and get out to go read it. Sure enough: Kilbride Military Camp. Access prohibited.
My journal says it was too cold and too far to climb up that hill behind it, so we laughed and went to have a pint and head home. There is something quintessentially Irish about this.
Click here for more 1990 pix.